A spectacular chardonnay whose voluminous and alluring perfume reveals deep layers of stonefruit, grapefruit and lemon tightly knit with faintly toasty vanilla oak spotlit with complex nuances of spice, creamy nougat and roast chicken pie. Its unctuous core of pristine stonefruit and citrus flavour steamrolls long and clear down a finely textured backbone, driving with power and style towards a fine, focused finish of refreshing and faintly mineral acids. Artfully balanced with smoky oak, it’s quite a masterpiece. Acknowledging the role of Darrin Gaffy in its making, this Chardonnay gets my nod as the finest white wine yet released by Doug Neal.

Austere and traditional, waiting to unfold deep layers of fruit and minerality, this faintly toasty and oily riesling has an alluring bouquet of white flowers, apple, pear and like juice backed by suggestions of schist and lavender. ItÕs rich and concentrated with a long and assertive palate of translucent lime juice, apple and pear-like fruit backed by a fine chalkiness and tightly wrapped in a taut acidity, finishing bone-dry and vivacious.