Last night I opened a new wine from Virginia Willcock at Vasse Felix, Margaret River. From a single site planted to 19 year-old Gingin (Mendoza) clone chardonnay vines, the DHJ1 Chardonnay from 2022 is made more on the wild side, with natural yeasts and absolutely minimal interference. The creaminess and meatiness that result from this approach add complexity and texture to this perfumed and mouthfilling wine, which at only 12.5% alcohol, delivers artful balance and style. Click here for more.