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A very sound Grange, but not a great one. It begins typically oaky and heady, with aromas of violets and cassis over obtrusive and assertive wood. It’s firm and tight-knit, with typically sumptuous fruit, but lacking the power and concentration of great years. Like any Grange, it’s chunky and clumsy in its youth and finishes dry, with astringent tannins.
Grange in top gear. I’m on a different planet to anyone who fails to be impressed and delighted by the classically dense, concentrated and alluring depth of this superbly balanced wine and its forthright expression of what Grange is all about. Talk about attitude – from its spicy, smoky, deeply fruited aromas to its brooding core of impenetrable fruit and lingering savoury, tight-knit finish, this Grange shows its pretenders for what they are.
A very good, but not a great Grange, without the cooked and stewy qualities of so many SA reds from this vintage. A typically complex, deep aroma of ripe blackcurrants, blueberries and black plums is enhanced by assertive dark chocolate, creamy and vanilla oak, with hints of eucalypt and mint. Very smooth and approachable, it’s creamy and velvet-like, but reveals some hard edges at the finish that should soften with time. There’s mouthfilling dark, bright and concentrated fruit, but it is already showing some development. There is plenty of length, but not enough to be a classic Grange.
An absolute fruit-bomb. Steeped in black fruits, it’s concentrated and ethereal, with a complex spicy, musky and lightly peppery aroma enhanced by assertive lightly toasty coconut and chocolate-like American oak. There’s also a gamey suggestion of smoked meat. Sumptuous, powerful, concentrated and astringent, its intense, briary fruit is long and seamless, thickly coated with smoky new vanilla/coconut oak, treacle and licorice. Warm and spirity to finish, it’s a muscular and massive Grange that should cellar for at least twenty years from its making.
Superbly elegant, reserved and harmonious shiraz, reflecting the intensity and brightness of the pristine small berry flavours so typical of the 1999 South Australian vintage. A briary perfume of violets, raspberries, blueberries, dark plums and cassis is sympathetically matched by assertive nuances of vanilla and chocolate oak aromas. Silky-smooth, beautifully controlled and refined, its long and willowy palate reveals intense and translucent small berry flavours superbly integrated with oak and satiny tannins. A profound change in style from the 1998 release that reflects the very best of its vintage. Has developed wonderful leathery and earthy complexity over time.
Deep, closed and brooding, with perfectly ripened aromas of dark berries, plums and typical smoky cedar/vanilla/dark chocolate Penfolds oak that become more fragrant with aeration, revealing scents of violets, cloves and cinnamon. Smooth, unctuous and exceptionally elegant for Grange, its voluptuous palate of black cherries, plums, black olives and smoky dark oak finishes with exceptional length of vibrant fruit over suggestions of minerals and vanilla. The longer it’s opened, the silkier and more ethereal it becomes, as the quality of its fine-grained tannin becomes apparent. A classic reflection of a great cool vintage.
A very ripe, assertive, profoundly structured and traditional warm year Grange whose dark, brooding and brambly fruit and lavish oak are supported by drying, firm and chalky tannin. ItÕs still a bruising young wine, with a surprisingly floral and heady, jasmine-like bouquet and dense layers of blackberries, blueberries, cassis and dark plums backed by smoky, meaty, dark chocolate and cedary influences. As it opens further, nuances of treacle, aniseed and graphite slowly emerge. Firm and dense, its palate simply drips with concentrated flavour, finishing with the length and balance expected of this label.
This most anticipated Grange is on the one hand a truly exceptional shiraz, but on the other is a genuine departure from GrangeÕs typical style. ItÕs powerful, layered and bruising to be sure, but thereÕs nothing heavy, clunky or over the top about it. In fact, itÕs remarkably elegant and balanced Ð a heady, deep and alluring wine whose deep violet-like aromas and wild, brambly flavours of cassis, blackberries, redcurrants and blueberries simply soak up its finely integrated sweet oak. Saturated with fruit, itÕs long, velvet-like and sumptuous; underpinned by fine, tight and drying tannins before finishing long, savoury and mineral, with lingering nuances of licorice, cloves, bay leaf, anise and cola. Spectacular.
Wild, ripe, meaty and briary, this densely packed and very slightly baked Grange is indeed a wine of its vintage. Its floral, earthy perfume of deep blackberry, blueberry and dark plum aromas reveals suggestions of roasting pan scrapings, cinnamon-like spices, sweet chocolatey oak and evolving tanned leather. Wrapped with firm, astringent tannins, its long, smoky palate of dark, brooding fruit finishes quite savoury, with a lingering core of fruit. A little angular at present, it should settle down with time.
This impressively constructed shiraz has a briary, confiture and pastille-like bouquet whose aromas of blackberries, blueberries, dark cherries and plums are handsomely cloaked in mocha/chocolate oak, backed by earthy, suede leather notes and reveal nuances of prune, cola and currant. Enlivened by a fresh acidity and underpinned by finely astringent, powdery tannins, it reveals a moderate but not great length of bright, concentrated dark fruit that dries out towards a faintly raisiny, currant-like finish of soy and black tea.
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