As riesling begins its journey towards genuine bottle age, the magic starts to develop around three years of age – especially if the wine is sealed with a screwcap. Here’s an exceptional example, from one of Australia’s very finest makers. 2022 was one of those magical seasons for riesling in Clare, delivering another stunner under The Merle label of Pike’s. It’s now settling down. There’s just a little more to its bouquet than the vivacious primary aromas of its youth. Its palate is starting to find the depth to take advantage of its exceptional length and shape. It’s an occasion wine; good enough that just opening it becomes an occasion. Joyful to drink now, it still has many years of development ahead should you prefer the variety’s more evolved expression. And while at $55 it’s priced towards the upper end of Australian riesling, ask yourself how many better or more versatile white wines you know around that figure… So treat yourself to some sheer quality and genuine value.