Sometimes you feel a little let down by a wine but then, one day, it all falls into place, the way you thought it should. This happened the other day with a wine from a great site and a top-class vintage – Balgownie’s Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 from Bendigo. From one of the signature red wine vineyards of Victoria, this superbly structured and proportioned red is only now starting to show the fruit weight, flesh and cigarboxy complexity expected of Balgownie at its best and longest-living. Forgive me please for ramming cabernet and its family so strongly during recent days, but right now the market is heaving with over-priced and over-rated red wines that make me see shiraz. At $48 a bottle, this classic 7 year-old cabernet is an absolute steal. It’s drinking superbly now and will continue to do so for decades.