Yes, there are times when you actually believe you could live with second best. Having just opened Giaconda’s second level Nantua Chardonnay from each of the 2019, 2021 and 2022 vintages, I’m truly inclined to feel I’m lacking nothing. I haven’t rated them yet, but I’m content to say that the 2019 is more forward and carries less flesh, the 2021 is worthy of serious thought, while the 2022 has less intensity but perhaps more savoury/saline refinement. The scores will pop up on this platform over the weekend, along with the stunning 2022 Giaconda Chardonnay, which is easily one of the finest expressions of this variety yet made in Australia. But don’t discount the Nantua Chardonnay just because it has a big brother. It’s a wonderfully round, generous, complete and sumptuous chardonnay that ticks most boxes you could ever think of, especially if you like your chardonnay to have fruit and flavour.