Silky, smooth, yet as bright as a spotlight, this restrained, complex young chardonnay presents a near-perfect balance between pristine tropical and citrus fruit flavour with the full spectrum of winemaking artefact in a way that is natural and easy to handle. It’s creamy yet fine, with an incredible length of fruit and a clear, tangy finish of mineral acids. Yattarna has a worthy rival.

Very well made, fine and austere, this multi-regional blend has a creamy fragrance of lemon meringue, grapefruit and melon with bacony and vanilla undertones. Built around a vibrant and concentrated core of citrusy fruit, it’s long and tangy, with a fine-grained, chalky mouthfeel and plenty of racy acidity. There’s just a hint of metallic greenness at the finish, but this is otherwise an excellent wine.

A more powerful, sumptuous and assertive wine than the taut and finely crafted 2004 edition. Slightly juicy aromas of peach/melon fruit are backed by lightly smoky and spicy nuances of fine-grained and clove-like oak, with undertones of dried herbs and appealing reductive complexity. There’s almost a sour-edged and drying aspect about its long palate whose slightly phenolic texture is enhanced by its pleasingly funky qualities.

A brilliant chardonnay, with distinctive character and attitude. Evolving into a savoury, meaty and mealy style typical of its label and supported by the sheer quality of its pure, crystalline fruit, it reveals a complex, rather spicy and funky bouquet of grapefruit, lime juice and a chalky, mineral note suggestive of smoked oyster. Deeply flavoured but medium in weight, itÕs long and briny, with deep, vibrant fruit emphatically supported by meaty, spicy and savoury qualities, finishing with exemplary persistence and acid balance.