A delicate, floral and mineral perfume of fresh lemon rind, chalk and wet slate precedes an assertive, but long and elegant palate whose intense, tangy flavours of lime juice and lemon have a crystalline brightness. ItÕs very shapely, with a fine, slatey texture that drives towards a core of lingering lime juice flavour. It opens steadily, with tremendous feel impact, finishing with austerity and a note of mineral.

A benchmark riesling set for the long term, starting its life laden with yeast-derived tropical qualities that steadily dissipate from the glass to reveal a purity of lime juice, lemon and apple aroma backed by schisty, chalky undertones, a hint of spice and sherbet. ItÕs piercingly flavoured but elegant and restrained, with a dusty, chalky chassis supporting an essential expression of lime, nashi pear, apple and lemon-like fruit, finishing bracingly bone dry and refreshing with a lingering core of flavour and pithy texture.

An exemplary wine, perhaps with more character and individuality at this age than most Polish Hills. Its piercing and faintly spicy bouquet of lime, lemon and sweet floral notes reveals notes of citrus rind, gunflint and minerals. It’s long and very dry, with a powerful, explosively concentrated presence of fruit that delivers an almost chardonnay-like fatness before culminating in an austere, smoky finish of exceptional length, savoury quality and focus. Perhaps the finest wine under this label? With more bottle age it is evolving superbly as predicted – showing some beautiful smoky and toasty complexity and more of an emphasis of minerality and brine at the finish.

Assertive, impactful and austere; lime juice, lemon pith and golden apple skin with floral and mineral notes; long and slatey; remarkable.