Just slightly lacking in genuine length and ripeness, cultivated but slightly cooked shiraz reveals richly concentrated aromas of blueberries, cassis and dark plums backed by suggestions of pepper and cloves. Meaty and juicy, it’s smooth and cultivated, delivering a slightly salty expression of deep, dark and slightly sour-edged plums and cranberries breaking up just fractionally at the smoky, mineral finish.

Dark and briary, this very distinctive, low-cropped and rustic shiraz marries searingly intense, fiery and very ripe and meaty fruit with assertive sweet oak. Its deep, brambly flavours of spicy dark fruit are backed by bony, coarse linen tannins. It takes quite some breathing to reveal the full extent of its dark pepper-laced perfume, length and elegance, while it finishes with suggestions of leathery development and clove-like spiciness. ItÕs an extreme expression of this vineyardÕs wilder side, but a worthwhile one to have in your cellar.

A fiery, gamey bouquet of blackberries, dark cherries, musky spices and briar is lifted by a whiff of pepper and a hint of polished leather. Without being assertive, itÕs forward and flavoursome, with an initial impact of intense small berry flavour, spicy character and meaty complexity supported by a chewy, supple backbone.

Quite a different wine from the rest of this Penfolds release, this Ð oak aside Ð is more of an Old World wine. On one hand it delivers a vivacious purity and intensity, on the other a smoky, bony and more perfumed aspect. Scented with bright aromas of cassis, raspberries, violets and earthy nuances, plus a hint of mint and menthol, itÕs backed by some quality but assertive oak. Tightly knit with chocolate oak, it bursts with luscious, palate-staining and almost bloody flavours of dark fruits before finishing with length, refreshing acidity and focus.