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An essay in restrained power and balance. Scented with a complex bouquet of grapefruit, melon, lemon meringue, lime juice and yellow peach knit with smoky, matchstick-like oak, itÕs backed by creamy, nougat-like notes of ginger and cinnamon plus an assertive minerality. Smooth and gentle despite its dense core of citrus/melon flavour, itÕs sumptuous and fatty but tightens with precision and focus towards a lingering mealy, briny and savoury finish of fresh, tightly balanced acidity. Underpinned by a fine chalkiness, itÕs stylistically located somewhere between the 1995 and 1996 vintages, with something extra.
Perhaps lacking the sumptuous length of the 2010 vintage, this is nevertheless a remarkable chardonnay whose pungent, smoky bouquet of grapefruit, melon and white peach is underpinned by creamy, nougat-like leesy notes, matchstick oak and a pungent minerality. Long and refined, with pleasing length and balance, itÕs succulent and complex, with an assertive presence of rich fruit that moves easily down the palate towards a smoky, slightly briny finish of complex reductive notes and a slightly edgy acidity. It will mature beautifully.
This sumptuous but evenly balanced chardonnay unfolds a complex, smoky bouquet whose fresh grapefruit, melon and white peach-like aromas are tightly knit with scents of matchstick and mineral, smoked meats and buttery, nougat-like vanilla oak backed by suggestions of musk, cinnamon and rose water. ItÕs long and lustrous, with sappy, mouthwatering flavours of melon, lemon and grapefruit oil seamlessly integrated into a unctuous but tightly focused palate that finishes with a gentle, soft acidity. It might lack the raw emphasis of recent vintages, but is clearly from the same site and is almost certain to develop more strength and character.
Finely crafted and balanced, this complex and deeply layered chardonnay has a bouquet of white peach, melon and creamy, nutty complexity backed by nuances of ginger, fresh matchstick oak and yellow flowers. It’s smooth and luscious, richly endowed with melon, grapefruit and white peach flavours tightly balanced with nougat-like and earthy undertones, extending long and savoury towards a lingering, soft but briny finish. With superlative balance, itÕs an exercise in complexity and latent power.
Long and luscious, creamy and complex; lingering fruit, spice and struck match.
Scented with grapefruit, ham hock, popcorn and matchstick oak, with a deep, luscious core of citrus, stonefruit and creamy nougat-like complexity, this sumptuous, seamless chardonnay drives long and pristine down a voluptuous palate towards a lingering, compelling finish. Underpinned by a gravelly texture and finishing with a briny note, itÕs an essay in controlled power and thoughtful, intelligent winemaking to build a wine that is so much more than the sum of its many parts.
Round and luscious, with a powerful core of slightly candied lemon, melon and stonefruit flavour underpinned by a fine minerality that steadily becomes more assertive. It slowly unfolds floral, nougat and matchstick-like complexity with undertones of ginger and cinnamon, finishing with mouthwatering acids and a lingering note of marzipan. Give it plenty of aeration.
Seamless, long and savoury, with smoky, creamy and nougat-like aromas of lemon curd, white flowers, grapefruit, melon and peach backed by matchstick oak. Its generous, fatty core of flavour extends long and measured over a fine, crunchy, slatey spine towards a savoury, mineral finish with a briny aspect. An emphatic expression of this vineyard and its makerÕs intent.
Presenting a new dimension in Australian chardonnay, this artfully created and full orchestra expression of the variety is of world class. Smoky and mineral, its deeply layered perfume of grapefruit pith, yellow peach, lime juice and grilled nuts is lifted by a heady, floral aspect and backed by nuances of nougat and chalk. ItÕs long and lustrous, simultaneously filling the mouth with flavour and texture but able to retain shape and focus. An incredible core of vivacious fruit of Montrachet-like emphasis drives long and smooth down a slatey backbone, extending with power and complexity towards a finish of rapier-grade tautness and precision, punctuated with a lingering note of umami. Very stable and ageworthy, this is a landmark wine that every serious chardonnay drinker needs to try.
Complex and smoky, with a core of yellow peach, grapefruit and yellow florals backed by suggestions of lime juice and coriander, popcorn and minerals plus a ferrous whiff of oyster shell. ItÕs long and voluptuous, with a creamy, almost fatty expression of peach, citrus and a hint of pineapple knit with matchstick oak, building weight and drive towards its lingering finish of brittle acidity. Clearly Giaconda, and a very fine effort from a warmer vintage.
Again, Rick Kinzbrunner releases a wine I correctly identify as the finest chardonnay yet made in Australia. It’s happened quite a few times before! This edition, form the remarkable 2021 vintage, reveals an easing back of oak influence and a more vibrant presentation of citrus and stonefruit flavour without sacrificing anything that stamps chardonnay from this vineyard apart. Underpinned by an extraordinary line of minerality, it’s mouthfilling and unctuous, but manages to retain pristine elegance and freshness long and bright before finishing with a superbly balanced acidity. Interestingly enough, other critics more welded onto the modern trend towards chardonnay without flavour are equally enthusiastic about this wine. I don’t recall ever giving a current release Australian table wine a perfect score, but I’m equally confident you won’t argue the toss with this wine.
Heady, layered aromas of yellow peach, ruby grapefruit and white flowers, popcorn and coriander backed by suggestions of oyster shell, minerals, matchstick and charcuterie meats are astonishingly voluminous and complex. Unctuous and explosive but superbly controlled and shapely, its voluptuous core of plump, mouthfillng fruit extends long and complete, swept along by a ferrous minerality and tightly wrapped in a mouthwatering and finely integrated acidity, finishing quite savoury with lingering notes of brine and lime juice. Quite remarkable for its complete, balanced and layered nature, delivering a rare combination of richness, intensity, minerality and refinement.
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Jeremy Oliver has created this website to help you further enjoy your wine experience.
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