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Rick Kinzbrunner is delighted with his move towards ‘super quality’ thin stave Bordeaux ‘Chateau’ barriques, which impart oak influence more quickly than other casks. The advantage he enjoys is that he is now satisfied with the level of oak expression in a wine after just 18 months of maturation, enabling him to bottle the Cabernet in a ‘fresher’ state and six months earlier than in the past. The wild, heady aromas of dark plums, violets, mint and cassis, and the piercingly intense ripe fruit on the creamy, cedary palate of the 1998 Cabernet reflect this change of approach. The oak is clearly fine-grained, tight and toasty, the tannins fine and powdery, the finish long and savoury. It’s a very stylish, elegant wine of purity and complexity.
Deeper, darker and more powerful than the 1998, yet it remains beautifully balanced and tight-knit. It shares the blackcurrant and violet flavours of the previous vintage, but delivers a more substantial package knit around fine, yet firm tannins.
Classically firm, long-term claret style with a sweet, polished aroma of plums, cassis and mulberries backed by nuances of violets, blackberries, dark olives and crushed leaves. Long, smooth, seamless and tightly integrated, it presents an intense spectrum of small berry fruits tightly wound around fine-grained and astringent tannins. Great strength and balance.
This is a meaty, plummy cabernet sauvignon with sweet influences from creamy vanilla oak, but whose predominant feature is an ashtray-like aspect that suggests to me a significant level of smoke taint, not an uncommon phenomenon in wine from north-eastern Victoria from the 2003 vintage. I have tasted dozens of smoke-tainted examples, and once this feature is drawn to my attention, I see very little else in a wine.
Smooth and seamless, this finely crafted cabernet has a lightly herbal aroma that opens with nuances of dried herbs and snap pea, but gradually reveals a greater volume of cassis, blackberries and sweet cedar/vanilla oak. Tightly knit around a firm spine of dusty, drying tannin, it’s lightly jammy, with intense small berry fruit backed by undertones of mint and dried herbs. Beautifully focused, it’s reminiscent of the delightful 1991 vintage, although the oak and tannin are better this time.
Dusty, herbal and briary aromas of cassis, blackberries, red berries and dark plums knit tightly with cedar/vanilla oak. Already rather herbal and likely to become more vegetal, its palate of sweet mulberries and plums is handsomely cloaked in fine, polished tannin and smooth vanilla oak, but despite its elegance and style has too much green-edged flavour for a higher rating.
Scented with violets, cedar, chocolate and vanilla, this rather polished and aromatic cabernet delivers juicy, sweet-fruited flavours of cassis, mulberries, dark plums and dark cherries supported by some presently rather assertive oak treatment that will settle down. Supported by a crunchy spine of fine-grained extract, it finishes with intense, jujube-like fruit and undertones of dried herbs. Pretty smart winemaking with good, but not great fruit.
Medium to long-term cabernet, with an earthy, slightly meaty and baked bouquet of light berry aromas and
cedary oak, lacking genuine freshness and perfume. Smooth, polished and elegant, with deep flavours of dark berries and plums underpinned by a smoky, briary aspect and tightly knit with fine-grained newish oak and supple, creamy tannins, it finishes faintly mineral, with nuances of mint, menthol and dried herbs.
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