Wynns Coonawarra Estate Black Label (Vertical July 2017) Cabernet Sauvignon 1954

A few short years ago this was my introduction to this remarkable brand: If Australia has a cabernet-based estate to rival the great properties of Bordeaux' left bank, that property is Wynns Coonawarra. Today it produces the lion's share of the serious red wine from the Coonawarra region and with some judicious interpretations of site and style is also exploring the richness of its substantial vineyard resource in Coonawarra, releasing small runs of individual vineyard wines of special quality when seasons permit, as well as the mouthwateringly pristine V and A reds. While Wynns is recognised locally as a benchmark brand, it is only a matter of time before the rest of the wine-drinking world wakes up to the starting quality and classical expressions of style it produces year after year after year. Today Wynns is still there, doing what it has always done, but seemingly under a shadow. Outstanding wines are sold well below their true value, while the brand's internal commitment to excellence has not waivered. The Glengyle Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 is another fine example. The label's owners and marketing team currently appear to be more focused on the introduction of more cheaper layers of Wynns wine, with the inevitable consequence that the brand and its story are diluted. Wynns should be the go-to brand for all Australian cabernet drinkers. The potential it still retains is unquestioned, but it's not going to realise it without some respect, care and attention.