Southcorp’s activities in renovating its huge Coonawarra vineyard holdings have attracted some publicity in recent months. While I will give considerable coverage to this very significant development in the next OnWine Report, it’s well worth pointing out that the results are already coming through. The major recipient of this activity is the Wynns brand, which is now able to draw from significantly better balanced and managed vineyards than in previous years. Winemaker Sue Hodder can now draw from large parcels of fruit that reach full physiological ripeness at significantly lower sugar levels. A tasting yesterday of 2003 wine components of cabernet sauvignon and shiraz revealed a new-found intensity and purity of flavour, together with a tightness and balance that has been missing from Wynns red wines for two decades. The 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon and John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon will have an alcoholic strength of around 13.0% and a only a modest contribution from new oak, yet they do not lack in any way for intensity, structure or longevity. They have much in common with the great Wynns wines of the 1950s and 1960s. It is also historically significant that at this point in time, one of the largest and most celebrated brands of premium Australian red wine is prepared to fly in the face of much opinion, both international and local, to focus on reds of elegance, balance, purity and drinkability. I share the excitement Sue Hodder has for these new wines, but recognise why she is concerned that many opinion leaders will find them thin and inadequate. All power to her and viticulturist Allen Jenkins for making the moves that will restore Wynns to its former leadership position in this industry.
