If ever a region reflected the changing fortunes of Australian wine, it is the Hunter Valley. Home to Australia’s first boutique or weekend winery, Australia’s first commercial chardonnay and pinot noir, plus industry icons like Lake, Tyrrell, Evans and McGuigan, the Hunter has been something of a crucible in which fortunes have been made and lost. It’s flirted with varieties like cabernet sauvignon and traminer, before ultimately recognising that its greatest hope lies with the grapes its present generation of winemakers and growers inherited from their forebears, semillon and shiraz. Much has been written about the difficulties of its climate and the paucity of its soils, but there’s little doubt that its better makers simply thrive on these challenges. Most importantly, the last ten years have witnessed a major rejuvenation of the Hunter and its spirit. The dreams its pioneers hardly dared to share – of a vigorous and profitable wine industry, of fine and varied accommodation, of innovative and quality food, of ancillary attractions like championship standard gold courses – have each arrived and are holding their own. Nick Bulleid is one of the best people to unravel the present-day Hunter for the wine visitor. He’s had an intimate involvement in the region since first picking grapes at Brokenwood in 1975 and becoming a partner in it three years later. He’s a wine professional through and through, became Australia’s third MW, and comes with years of experience as a critic and writer. His Hunter Valley Wineguide, published by Pizzey WIF and retailing for $28.95, is the first thing I would pack if heading to the Hunter for even just a day. It covers all aspects of travel, accommodation and eating, the region’s history and great wine styles. Well over one hundred wineries are covered in great detail, so after some short homework you can arrive anywhere knowing just what to taste and to ask. It’s a cheery, easy read and well worth every cent.
