Interesting how many people are beginning now to doubt for themselves whether or not the Australian 1998 vintage was as broadly successful as they initially believed. I remember getting buckets tipped on me when I wrote that it was largely a vintage of lost opportunity. When they’re good, they’re very, very good, but when they are ordinary, they’re generally over-ripe and lacking in complexity. One vintage that continues to grow in stature is 1996. Speaking very generally of course, its wines are just beginning to show some genuine bottle-age, but are simultaneously remaining youthful, fresh and vital. One outstanding example is the sumptuous, chocolatey Metala Black Label Shiraz 1996, from the original century-old plantings on the Stonyfell vineyard in Langhorne Creek. Still bursting with primary fruit, it’s round, mouthfilling and luscious, but its fruit and sweet oak are amply supported by fine, firm but gentle tannins. Like so many of the reds from 1996, which were generally made before the present trend towards over-ripeness, it has ages to go. Which is also a lot more than I can say about so many overcooked wines from 2000 and 2001.
