It would be dead easy to talk up Vanya Cullen’s abilities as a winemaker and what she has done for Australian wine. But lost amongst the accolades would be the real measure of her achievement. Which, simply put, is to use age-old principles of viticulture and winemaking to elevate a highly proficient and reputable small winery into one of the most sought after on Planet Earth. It’s taken about fifteen years of fine attention to detail to turn Cullen into an overnight sensation, but unlike many of the overnight sensations in Australian wine, there’s nothing remotely trendy about the place. Its premier wine is not shiraz, but a blend of red Bordeaux varieties, for which Vanya Cullen has even jettisoned the fashionable ‘Reserve’ tag that is still so frequently abused by so many makers. There’s no Cullen wine made from grapes from Italy, the Rhone Valley, Spain or the US. Instead, there’s also a chardonnay, a pinot noir and a blend of sauvignon blanc and semillon. Vanya Cullen took over the winemaking reins at the family’s vineyard and winery with three principal assets: a mature vineyard on one of Margaret River’s best sites, a remarkable natural flair for tasting and making wine, and a mother, Di Cullen, who was smart enough to recognise and trust in her talents. Under Vanya’s stewardship each of Cullen’s principal wines has substantially evolved over recent years. As a mature winemaker she is not only confident in what her vineyard can deliver, but is willing and able to let it express its own terroir, responding to variations in its character from season to season. Despite the efforts of so many winemakers who attempt to drive a style in the direction they want it to go, all of Australia’s very best wines are made by those in tune with their vineyards. Like a great Bordeaux red but substantially more consistent than most, the Cullen Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot can be as refined, silky and elegant as the 1997 vintage or at the other extreme as powerful and substantial as the 1995. Either way or in between, they are classical new world wines of great class and definition. The Chardonnay has toned down somewhat to a leaner, more minerally expression whose silky texture and surprising longevity are partially attributed by Vanya Cullen to her use of wild yeasts. Their bright lemon and pineapple fruit are offset by a chalky mouthfeel and flinty finish. Again, a reflection of a maker in touch with her terroir. Happy to steer clear of the typically herbaceous regional blend of sauvignon blanc and semillon, Vanya Cullen’s style is long, tight and only lightly grassy. It’s exceptionally complex and therefore suited to a wide spectrum of foods. And, recognising the area’s limitations with pinot noir, Cullen has deftly refashioned her wine into a deliciously mouthfilling and earlier-drinking style based squarely around ripe, vibrant fruit. It’s fresh and uncomplicated, but certainly delivers the best from her vineyard. Vanya Cullen is also a sought-after taster and show judge in this country and overseas. Her second nomination for this award is itself a sure indication of her talents and achievements.
