There is no end to the hide of the English. Not only do their cricket selectors feel free to choose from the better pickings of the Australian Cricket Academy, but there is an undercover invasion of English beer which, allied with a growing number of UK-style hotels establishing in Australia, is infiltrating an ale-related gospel amid a society grown and reared on Australian lager. Most English beer is of a style quite foreign to most Australian beer drinkers but given our innate curiosity about such matters, we seem more than happy to give it a try. Even Lady Churchill found English beer an acquired taste, once saying that she, like most people, actually hated it. ‘To begin with’, Sir Winston is said to have replied. ‘It is, however, a prejudice that many have been able to overcome.’ It’s likely that beer was the first home-made alternative to water, probably made by some primitive man who bashed some seed – possibly barley – with a stone, and left it to ferment in a mixture of water and honey. That process is basically what Messrs. Bass and Tennent claim to have got down to a fine art. Beer has been made by the Sumerians and Babylonians since before 6000 BC and by about 2000 BC it had become the national drink of the Egyptians, arguably the best-preserved race in the world. They sometimes used it as a medicine. England’s drink in the middle ages was ale – a dark, powerful brew of malt, yeast and water. The strength of the brew was tightly controlled by government representatives wearing leather breeches called ale-conners. A conner would supposedly pour a little ale onto an oak bench, and sit on it. If, when he stood up, the bench did not rise with him, the ale was understrength. This phenomenon doubtless explains the amount of beer found on hotel seats today, and the return to fashion of leather pants. Ales are more heavily flavoured than lagers, having less of a fizz, but quite often more of a kick. Usually a darker colour, the is to beer what a more generous red is to wine. Ales have more hop flavour and aroma and consequently can be served with richer food. Or of course, by themselves. Ales are top-fermented beers, for they are fermented with a yeast which rises to the top of the beer – allowing it to be skimmed of the top of the open vat. The beer is bottled post haste, when the rest of the fermentation is finished. In fact, some ales (such as Coopers Sparkling Ale) are made with an open fermentation followed by a bottle fermentation and many actually improve with a little age. Conversely lagers, the category of beer into which most Australian-brewed product falls, are generally fermented in sealed vessels, by a yeast type that settles to the bottom of the tank at the completion of fermentation. ‘Lager’ is the German word for storage, and this is what happens next. The ‘green’ immature beer is aged for several months in cold tanks, to allow its flavour to develop and become more complex. Lagers generally make better aperitif beers, but they can accompany lighter foods. The beer drinking habits of both Australians and English are changing. They’re serving ales colder than before – but not as cold as our lagers – while we’re slowly broadening our outlook. English beer is no longer warm and soupy by definition. Australians are getting excited by the concept of diversity in beer, against the habitual lifelong ‘I only drink Fosters mate’ mentality. Bass Pale Ale One of the unmistakable visual props in Manet’s classic painting of ‘The Bar at the Folies Bergere’, this traditionally brewed full-bodied British ale has a deep, rich amber colour and a pleasingly bitter finish. Now available in 50 litre kegs plus 330 ml bottles. Caffreys Irish Ale A cool, creamy Irish ale which takes about three minutes to settle in the glass, creating a smooth creamy head and taste. Guinness (Draught cans) No introduction needed for the imported version of Guinness, sold in a 440ml self-gassing can which delivers a head to perfect you can literally make your initials in it. A wonderfully smooth, rich, dark beer with creamy, roasted characters. The locally-made version on tap in pubs is an attractive lighter stout, but nothing like the real thing. McEwan’s Export Indian Pale Ale The UK’s largest selling premium canned ale, this is a dark golden beer with a full-bodied but distinctive roasted barley flavour, low gas levels and a smooth, slightly bitter finish. Newcastle Brown Ale Its characteristic dark brown colour belies the freshness and crispness of this very approachable English ale. Suited as much to summer as to winter. St Andrews Ale A malty, full-bodied Scottish ale with a tawny colour and a chewy palate. More malty and full-bodied, but less hoppy and dry than its English equivalents. Stones Draught Bitter With its distinctive golden colour, this is the leading imported ‘widget’ ale sold in Australia. With a smooth creamy taste, it suits Australian conditions since it’s best served cold. Lord knows how they do it, but the widget inside releases just enough nitrogen to replicate the true presentation of a draught of hand-pulled Yorkshire Bitter. Tennents Lager A new beer recently introduced to this market, the crisp and refreshing Tennents Lager Beer has been brewed since 1885 and is now Scotland’s favourite lager style. Tennents Stout A deliciously thick, creamy and smoky stout from the original Glasgow stout exporters from Scotland. Theakston’s Best Bitter A delightful golden brown ale made with crystal and pale malts together with traditional English hope. Creamy, full-bodied and very refined to taste, it finishes with a crisp, clean-edged finish. Theakston’s Old Peculier The Old Peculier comes from the town of Masham, near Ripon, Yorkshire. A classic old ale, it is thick, rich and dark. Muscular, as heavy as lead, sweet and voluminous, it is smooth and almost stout-like in aroma. To be given a wide berth by the drinking wimp, the Old Peculier can be used as breakfast, lunch and dinner for those wishing to travel light on hiking expeditions.
