There’s a sea change happening with the wines of Shaw and Smith. Having settled into the new winery facilities in time for the 2000 vintage, the company is now reaping the rewards of being able to utilise its own vineyards, its own equipment and bottling facilities, and generally being in complete control of its own destiny. Furthermore, despite early reports to the contrary, the 2002 vintage was an exceptional one in the Adelaide Hills. Late to be sure, but given the substantially lower yields than normal, the grapes ripened late in coolish, dry conditions. I have just had the opportunity to taste Shaw and Smith’s newly released wines, plus a number of others planned for release down the track. First was a 2002 Riesling (17.4 drink 2004-2007+), made from the first crop from the vineyard directly in front of the winery building. It’s remarkably floral and fragrant, genuinely musky and penetrative. Its taut, trim palate presents crystal-clear fruit over a fine-grained spine of chalky phenolics and mineral acids. The 2002 Sauvignon Blanc (18.6, drink 2003-2004+) has fleshed out beautifully since I first tasted it last August. It’s more herbal and aromatic than the Lenswood Vineyards wine of the same year, but is concentrated, fine and austere, finishing quite dry. One of the few Australian rivals to the better Kiwis. The new M3 Chardonnay, a line that replaces the Reserve and which is designed to cellar longer and express a greater focus on fruit, is from the significantly hotter 2001 vintage. However it still meets its makers’ objectives with fresh cool melon, apple and pear fruit and a fine, creamy palate that finishes crisp and refreshing. It’s rated 18.0, drinking 2003-2006+. The 2001 Merlot (18.1, drink 2006-2009) reveals the perfume and dark cherry/plum flavours of the variety with a hint of mint and well integrated lightly smoky, cedary oak. It has flesh, weight and cellaring potential and represents a step up in division and class from the popular 2000 wine. Huge value at $29. Tasted from barrel, the 2002 wine is just as big a step again. Put it down in your little black book. Down the track you’ll also see the release of a 2002 Shiraz, largely from Maccelesfield and Mount Barker (Adelaide Hills) that appears to be developing into the best Adelaide Hills Shiraz I have yet tasted, with pure sneezy black pepper flavours and exotic cinnamon/nutmeg spices, not to mention deep, dark black and red berry fruits. Very Crozes-Hermitage at this stage, and worth another tag in your memory.
