Australia’s leading makers of sparkling wines are clearly going full stops out to cash in on the Millennium concept. Some of the packages are so tawdry and desperate to attract a buyer that they tell their own sad quality story. Others, however, are well worthy of attention, especially the more serious releases of Seppelt and what was until recently known as Domaine Chandon. Seppelt has released a series of wines under its M2 tag of which three are labelled as Millennium Release Late Disgorged Sparkling Shiraz, from the years 1991, 1992 and 1993 (each $40 retail, approx.). The pick of the bunch is the 1993 wine (18.2, drink 2001-2005), whose tarry, earthy and lightly sweaty complexity lends a rustic flavour to its ripe, spicy fruit. It’s a charming older style, with some length and strength. The 1992 wine (16.6, drink 1999-2002+) has some spicy stewed prune and sweet red berry fruit, but is altogether more evolved, earthy and truffly, and frankly slightly medicinal. The 1991 edition is tighter and finer, slightly herby and sappy, but the sample I tasted was slightly corked. In the same series comes the Millennium Release Late Disgorged Chardonnay Pinot Noir 1993 (18.5, drink 1998-2001+, $40 retail, approx.), a particularly pretty, spotless wine bursting with creamy ripe small red cherry/berry fruit, before becoming nutty and savoury towards its long, clean finish. It’s fractionally too sweet for this Oliver to drink much of. Miles out in front as the best Y2 release is Chandon’s Millennium Cuvee 1993 (18.8, drink 1998-2001+, $50 cellar door only), a classic fizz of exceptional length and complexity. It’s quite oxidative in nature, but has the flavour and character to reward its five-plus years on lees. A nutty, lightly spicy bouquet of dried flowers and creamy, bready yeast influences precedes a deliciously refined, smooth palate of enormous depth which eventually unfolds towards a vibrant, crisp, clear finish. Yellowglen has also joined the party with its Y 2000 1996 wine (16.4, drink 2000-2003, $25 retail, approx.), a comparatively simple wine whose light toasty and lemony flavours and broad, somewhat neutral palate is clearly dimished if tasted in the former’s company.
