Seppelt, the Southcorp brand whose diversity almost parallels that of its gargantuan parent, is paying renewed attention to its Victorian portfolio, especially to the wines from its Drumborg vineyard, in the south of the State’s western districts, 30 km north-west of Portland. First planted in 1964, it has been trialled to no less than forty different grape varieties. Three newly released wines from the 1998 vintage, including a Riesling ($26 retail), a Pinot Grigio ($22 retail) and a Pinot Noir ($39 retail), give renewed heart to the fans of the vineyard, whose wines have been sold in various guises since the early 1970s. It’s a distinctly cool site and its performance does reflect some rather substantial seasonal variation. 1998 was a long, dry and warm summer with a relatively early start, so all varieties were harvested genuinely ripe. The 1998 Pinot Grigio (17.4, drink 2000-2003) has evolved from a nutty, savoury and rather reserved beginning into a wine of attractive melon and lemon blossom flavours and clean, slightly chalky acids. The 1998 Pinot Noir (17.4, drink 2003-2006) is perhaps the most interesting wine, since it’s one of the better efforts I’ve seen from a large Australian company. Its generous, slightly confection-like raspberry, plum and cherry fruit has developed a rose garden fragrance and some genuine gamey complexity, while it’s mouthfeel is genuinely rich and surprisingly assertive. While it lacks great length, its tannins are soft and appealing. Rather a juicy, broad-textured wine, the 1998 Riesling (16.7, drink 2003-2006+) does tend to reflect the warmth of the season. It’s quite phenolic and finishes a little tough, something its makers have compensated for by rather a generous serve of residual sugar. That said, it does present some almost smoky varietal floral aromas, with musky scents of lemon, lime and rose oil. Seppelt’s best Drumborg wine of 1998 is however is Chardonnay (18.6, drink 2003-2006+), still to be released but certainly a wine worth waiting for. Very complex, evolved and almost funky, its pure melon and stonefruit flavours are partnered by smoky matchstick oak, while its creamy palate finishes long before a savoury finish with mineral acids. Let’s hope Seppelt releases this wine before too many others hear about it.
