Now that the French giants Moet-Hennesey and Louis Vuitton, who own Veuve Clicquot, have merged, Australia’s Champagne market is undergoing a shakedown at top level. Prior to this merger, Veuve Clicquot was Australia’s biggest-selling Champagne, and at its heels was Moet et Chandon, which in nearly every other country in the world was the market-leader. The situation clearly needed redress. Moet’s successful sponsorship of the America’s Cup helped re-position it as Australia’s largest-seller, although it wasn’t able to propel either the French or the Australians in their disastrous campaigns with American Denis Conner. At least Australia and France produce better sparkling wine! The re-positioning of the brands, however, was not complete until Veuve Clicquot could acquire a more up-market image than Moet, and could be seen as the exclusive, prestige House in the stable. Englishman Rupert Clevely was recently appointed as the Australasian Director for Veuve Clicquot, and was recently introduced to the Melbourne wine press and social jetset (the two are rarely put under the same roof) for a tasting of current release wines and recently-disgorged magnums of old vintages, dating to 1949, flown over from Veuve Clicquot. The exercise was a rare experience, but it is hardly fair for me to discuss how extraordinarily good were the old wines, for neither you nor I are likely to pick up a magnum from the local licenced grocer for the Sunday table, are we? But the 1949 was especially drinkable and in remarkable health. I am certain that the exercise will continue and succeed, and that Mr Clevely will enjoy his mission.
