Robert Mondavi Pinot Noir (Reserve) 1986 Wholesale Price $228.00 The first time I tasted the Robert Mondavi Reserve Pinot Noir 1986 I simply could not believe that Californian pinot could be so good. At a time when we are examining our own efforts with this grape to a microscopic degree there was a real danger this wine could slip us by. When the very things we are looking for in this variety are depth and genuine varietal flavour, Mondavi presents us with both – and a lot more. This is a superb wine, unfiltered and matured in heavily-charred oak barrels, making it quite distinct and different. It’s a Boulevard cruiser of a pinot noir – with big dimensions, smooth lines and padded comfort- but it’s also got grunt. Luxuriant cherry-kernel fruit with earthy, spicy flavours and classic pinot fragrance marry in its classy bouquet. There is body, depth, and remarkable length of flavour. It’s a landmark pinot noir, but in reality too voluptuous and clean to be a Burgundy, although I confess without shame to have once mistaken it for such. Grown and made in California’s Napa Valley by one of the world’s most innovative winemakers, I believe it easily to be the best pinot noir to retail under $40 in this country today. No doubt at all – verdelho is on its way. The pundits who thought sauvignon blanc would be next to take over from chardonnay, and those who went for traminer before that, now have another variety to watch for. Verdelho could well become the most fashionable light, fresh white wine variety in Australia. Like most things, it happened years ago as well. Lindemans put verdelho on the map in the Hunter Valley, and those old ‘sixties wines you can still find today will not disappoint. But this time it’s catching on. Following the success of the Sandalford Margaret River Verdelho and the Moondah Brook Verdelho (Moondah Brook is a Houghton label), which have created a whole new image for the variety, Wyndham Estate (Hunter Valley) have planted hundreds of acres and Lindemans (Hunter Valley and Padthaway) have re-entered the fray. Verdelho is now known for its fresh, fruity young whites and its potential to develop in the bottle, underlined by the Moondah Brook 1983 Verdelho winning the Trophy for the Best Open White Wine at last year’s Melbourne Show. Verdelho has a slightly flinty character, a greenish note and a tendency towards honeyed flavours as it develops with age. Its rich glycerol-like smoothness really stands out after few year’s maturation in the bottle. Verdelho seems a sure bet for the restaurateur who wishes to buy a wine to sell immediately, but with the ability to improve if it doesn’t walk out straight away. Rarely given heavy doses of expensive oak maturation, verdelho is also reasonable to purchase. Fortunately for Houghton, they have acres of the stuff, planted eighty kilometres north of Perth in a warm, but under-rated viticultural area known as Gingin. There are 375 hectares on the property’s rich sandy loam, of which 108 are under vine, twelve of them verdelho. Valencia Vineyards (then part of the Emu Wine Company) bought the Moondah Brook Estate in 1968, in an inspired moment and only had to wait until 1972 for its first commercial vintage. Originally a horse, cattle and sheep property, Moondah Brook (then known as Moondah) was first planted to grapes when Richard Rennie, who purchased the property in 1924, put in a small vineyard of sultanas and currants for dried fruit. To my mind, the estate’s two best wines today are its chenin blanc and its verdelho, both of which achieve surprising flavour. The Moondah Brook Verdelho 1989 is one of the cleanest, primmest, freshest wines to come this way lately, and I recommend it without hesitation. Its price from the wine-list should not be too high and its presentation fits the uncomplicated, appealing drink it is. Having a name people will recognise will also help move this wine. Robert Mondavi Reserve Pinot Noir 1986 19 medium to fill red, earthy, cherry, charry oak, kernel flavours, rose-like smell. palate forward fruit, good weight, rich, soft, round and voluptuous, big toasted oak, firm yet soft grip, very stylish, very elegant, cherry-velvet palate cellar three to five more years Distribution is via IH Baker.
