Andrew Hood is also the winemaker for Winstead, a tiny 1.5 ha vineyard which borders the Coal River Valley. Owned by Neil and Julienna Snare, it produces a riesling whose roundness, richness and underlying acid structure suggest a heritage somewhat Alsatian, plus a pinot noir which occasionally ranks amongst the finest of cool-climate Australian examples. The vineyard is 60% planted to pinot noir, 40% to riesling. But Winstead, whose major problem is its minuscule size, is certainly a riesling vineyard to look for now that this important variety is finally re-establishing its credibility in the Australian market. The 1998 edition is a wonderfully restrained, reserved wine whose richness and weight belie the delicacy of its rose petal fragrance and musky apple and pear fruit. Almost oily in texture, it presents an excellent length of vibrant, musky lime-apple and passionfruit flavour, finishing zesty and lemony. It ranks 18.6 and will be best opened around 2006-2010. The 1997 Winstead Riesling was almost as good, with a herbal note and spicy nutmeg aroma which suggested a New Zealand riesling from Marlborough more than an Alsatian alternative. Lighter than previous vintages, the 1998 Pinot Noir is a fine, supple and tight-grained wine which should look at its best over the next couple of years. Its light cherry and raspberry fruit has a lightly herbal edge, while its aroma lacks the concentration of some vintages. It’s rated at 17.0. Proprietor Neil Snare is cooling his heels before wanting to expand in a few years time. Distributed in Melbourne by Sutherland Cellars, Winstead can be contacted on (03) 6268 6417.
