Dominique Portet’s two new red wines highlight what I expect to become an emerging trend in Australian wine: the introduction of more freshness and vitality in red wines. His new 2000 Heathcote Shiraz (16.9, drink 2005-2008) and 2000 Yarra Valley Cabernet Sauvignon (16.6, drink 2005-2008) both reflect an approach to treat red wines on skins for significant periods, but to do so as gently as possible. Unlike virtually all other shirazes from Heathcote, several of which push the limits of ripeness and extraction, Portet’s wine expresses lively, fragrant spicy, floral and cherry/cassis/plum aromas and an approachable, fine-grained and supple palate. There’s a delicate background of tar and leather. Its acids are lively, and its impact more refreshing than most contemporary Australian reds, yet it spent between 15-18 days on skins. The Cabernet Sauvignon is a vibrant wine without being hugely complex. It’s delicate, dusty and herbal, but isn’t green. Instead, its piercing flavours of small berry fruits have reasonable length and are finely knit with tight tannins. Creamy, cedary oak provides a balanced background. Both wines retail for $40, but can be bought from the cellar on the corner of the Maroondah Highway and Maddens Lane for $35.
