Mercer’s is an excellent restaurant towards the eastern extremity of Melbourne’s urban sprawl. Stephen Mercer has assembled a list that is imaginative and comprehensive, without having telephone directory-like dimensions. Most importantly, its wine prices are very accessible indeed, especially when compared to CBD restaurants of greater pretension if not quality in food, wine and service. Given that Eltham is on the fringe of the Yarra Valley, it’s hardly surprising to see a number of well-chosen wines from the region, but they far from dominate the list at the expense of excellent wines from most major quality regions in Australia. Wines are simply and clearly grouped by varietal composition, complete with regional names and vintage years. A reasonable number of good wines are available by the glass, while Mercer’s has an affordable selection of magnums and a small, but well chosen group of imported wines and older vintages. Well worth the drive out of town.
