Since this issue of OnWine features the latest Penfolds release it’s more than appropriate that it should also highlight the excellent Magill Estate restaurant, located in the heart of what remains of the original home of Grange itself at Magill Estate. It’s a brilliantly conceived restaurant elevated just high enough above the vineyard itself to overlook the city of Adelaide over the tops of the vines themselves. In keeping with the building’s modern lines and construction the cuisine is contemporary, not linking itself with any European or Asian culture in particular. As you might guess, even if they’re all from the same maker, it’s the wine selection that makes Magill Estate a must-visit when in Adelaide. There’s a steadily improving white collection whose quality is reflected in Penfolds’ recent improvements with riesling and chardonnay, but any serious Penfolds enthusiast would already be casting an eye over a red wine list that features extensive collections of all the major brands going back four decades. Grange goes back to 1971, Bin 707 to 1984, Bin 389 to 1987, Magill Estate to 1983, St Henri to 1980 and so on. There’s a brilliant selection of the Special Bin wines plus some esoteric trial wines labelled as ‘Cellar Reserve Pinot Noir 1997’ and ‘Cellar Reserve Kalimna Sangiovese 1998. You can also work through a healthy range served by the glass, which includes 1979 Grange and 1988 St Henri. In short, Magill Estate is a Penfolds collector’s dream come true. And the prices are Adelaide prices, know what I mean?
