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Pick of the Lists – BANC53 Martin Place (cnr Martin Place and Phillip St), Sydney, NSW. 02 9233 5300

Banc is a large showcase-styled French restaurant which opened its doors two and a half years ago in the centre of Sydney. I spent an evening there not so long ago while pondering the finalists for the Qantas Wine Magazine Winemaker of the Year and was very impressed with the fare and the wine service on offer. Banc’s wine list is less of an attempt at a wine catalogue or wine library but more of a fussy, if very large selection of excellent wine. Begun by Remi Bancal, it features a strong representation of Australian, French wines and others which are clearly presented in an easy to read, if not insubstantial document. French wines are presented by region, Australian by variety and state. There’s also a short-form list which would do most restaurants proud as a main list. It makes a fine alternative for those who would rather get straight to the point. Included amid the varietal listings are found a collection of well chosen wines from the US, New Zealand, Germany, while red and white Italian wines get their own short lists. There are very detailed listings of Champagne, Alsatian riesling, white and red Burgundy, red Bordeaux, Sauternes, Barsac and other sweet French wines. Philippe Morim makes his selections on the basis of quality and ageing potential and is prepared to keep purchases off the list for several years while they mature.

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