Like many of the odd-numbered years of the 1980s and 1990s, 1995 did not distinguish itself across the length and breadth of our land, drenched as it is on occasions by rain as well as by sun. Other than Margaret River, where it produced slightly atypical reds of profound structure and longevity, 1995 actually did much of its best work at McLaren Vale. Hardys made two excellent shirazes using McLaren Vale fruit in 1995. It was the first vintage of the Tintara Shiraz, while the 1995 Eileen Hardy Shiraz was a superb equal blend of McLaren Vale and Padthaway material. Unlike many other winners of the Jimmy Watson Trophy, it is a top-class wine with excellent cellaring potential. Comparing the two wines yesterday, it was evident that I had marginally under-estimated the Eileen Hardy’s longevity, while similarly over-estimating that of the Tintara label. There’s more fruit and structure behind the Eileen, while the Tintara was always going to depend more on its exquisite balance and harmony. The Tintara has moved well into secondary and tertiary flavours, but retains its appealing palate sweetness and charm. The Eileen, on the other hand, has hardly budged at all over the last few years, remaining superbly intense, focused and wonderfully long. It still delivers primary fruit and assertive, but harmonious, oak. Its tannins are smooth and velvet-like, but give plenty of spine. So, if these wines feature in your collection, start cleaning up the Tintara. It’s had a great innings but is shortly to wane. On the other hand, only drink the Eileen 1995 if you prefer your McLaren Vale reds to taste young, even if they’re not!
