Their release date in Australia isn’t until March 1, but already there has been much discussion surrounding the ‘2001’ release of the Penfolds Bin reds. I put that in parentheses simply because one of the best wines of the release comes from 2002, which in itself is incredibly encouraging for next year’s ‘2002’ release. As a group, the wines are generally competent and meet the expectations I have developed through tasting more South Australian reds from 2001 than I’d really care to do again. This was the hottest vintage on record, and in all but a few South Australian reds, it really shows. This Penfolds group is generally relatively early maturing (for this brand), exactly as you’d expect from a hot season. Most wines are true to style, although the Bin 389 is unusually smooth and restrained for its age. The pick of the bunch is the Bin 128 Shiraz ($25, 18.0, drink 2009-2013+) from Coonawarra. Rather rich, round and old-fashioned, it’s quite spicy and rustic, with charming sweet fruit and musky, animal hide qualities. It’s generous, fine-grained and very pleasingly balanced. Next up are the 389 and 138. Its significant Padthaway component ($49, 17.5, drink 2009-2013) is responsible for the Bin 389’s pronounced menthol characters, while overall it’s smooth, long and vibrant, with pleasing jujube-like fruit framed by firm, but velvet-like tannins. Not exactly a classic expression of the style, but a sound, competent wine nevertheless. Priced around $25, the Bin 138 Old Vine Grenache Shiraz Mourvedre 2002 (17.5, drink 2005-2008+) is a deliciously vibrant, plump and juicy young red bursting with dark cherries and plums, finishing smooth and supple with silky tannins. It’s spicy and floral, with just a hint of appealing meatiness. After these is a rather treacle-like, pruney and chocolatey Bin 28 Kalimna Shiraz 2001 ($25, 16.3, drink 2006-2009) that is slightly cooked, lacking length and freshness. With its minty/menthol and herbaceous, rather silage-like flavours, the Bin 407 Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 ($30, 16.0, drink 2006-2009) reflects some of the under-ripe and over-ripe characters so typical of the season. It’s fine and elegant, but lacks the stuffing of its better vintages.
