It might have escaped your attention, but October 26 was actually ‘V’ Day, joining the list of annual wine industry festivals such as Wynnsday (which now appears to have received the gong) and Australian National Sparkling Red Day (which many argue should appear on the religious calendar as well). ‘V’ Day is brainchild of Robert Hill Smith of Yalumba fame, who has initiated the concept to market his collection of 1998 Yalumba viogniers (as opposed to the excellent Heggies Viognier) which, frankly, set the pace for this grape in this country. The trio includes the Yalumba Growers Limited Release Viognier ($19 retail, approx.), the Yalumba ‘Noble Pick’ Botrytis Viognier ($25 retail, approx., 375 ml, a wine for prisoners on quarry duty?) and a new label christened Yalumba ‘The Virgilius’ ($40 retail, approx.), which students of history and/or Latin will immediately identify as being associated by, with or from (or perhaps to or for) the Roman poet Virgil, author of The Aeneid and other seminal works. At Yalumba they’re referring to The Virgilius as a Super-Viognier, and why not? It’s been given the sort of heavy treatment usually reserved for chardonnay including fermentation in small French oak, partial malolactic fermentation and nine months of maturation in oak on lees. It’s very complex and harmonious, with richness, alcoholic oomph and a juicy, almost oily mouthfeel of apricot, lemon rind and orange blossom. I rate it at 17.7 and suggest it be enjoyed sooner than later, since it will probably fatten with age. The Growers Limited Release Viognier (17.0, drink 1999-2000+) is a clean, refreshing and uncluttered wine with hazelnut, apricot fruit and a slightly sweet, but flinty finish. And for the sweet-toothed, the Noble Pick (17.8, drink 2000-2003) is a delicious, luscious wine whose musky lemony aromas and concentrated flavours of apricot and pear culminate in a clean, zesty finish. It’s a rare and harmonious marriage of viognier fruit and botrytis influence.
