Moondah Brook Estate Verdelho 1989 Wholesale Price $75.00 No doubt at all – verdelho is on its way. The pundits who thought sauvignon blanc would be next to take over from chardonnay, and those who went for traminer before that, now have another variety to watch for. Verdelho could well become the most fashionable light, fresh white wine variety in Australia. Like most things, it happened years ago as well. Lindemans put verdelho on the map in the Hunter Valley, and those old ‘sixties wines you can still find today will not disappoint. But this time it’s catching on. Following the success of the Sandalford Margaret River Verdelho and the Moondah Brook Verdelho (Moondah Brook is a Houghton label), which have created a whole new image for the variety, Wyndham Estate (Hunter Valley) have planted hundreds of acres and Lindemans (Hunter Valley and Padthaway) have re-entered the fray. Verdelho is now known for its fresh, fruity young whites and its potential to develop in the bottle, underlined by the Moondah Brook 1983 Verdelho winning the Trophy for the Best Open White Wine at last year’s Melbourne Show. Verdelho has a slightly flinty character, a greenish note and a tendency towards honeyed flavours as it develops with age. Its rich glycerol-like smoothness really stands out after few year’s maturation in the bottle. Verdelho seems a sure bet for the restaurateur who wishes to buy a wine to sell immediately, but with the ability to improve if it doesn’t walk out straight away. Rarely given heavy doses of expensive oak maturation, verdelho is also reasonable to purchase. Fortunately for Houghton, they have acres of the stuff, planted eighty kilometres north of Perth in a warm, but under-rated viticultural area known as Gingin. There are 375 hectares on the property’s rich sandy loam, of which 108 are under vine, twelve of them verdelho. Valencia Vineyards (then part of the Emu Wine Company) bought the Moondah Brook Estate in 1968, in an inspired moment and only had to wait until 1972 for its first commercial vintage. Originally a horse, cattle and sheep property, Moondah Brook (then known as Moondah) was first planted to grapes when Richard Rennie, who purchased the property in 1924, put in a small vineyard of sultanas and currants for dried fruit. To my mind, the estate’s two best wines today are its chenin blanc and its verdelho, both of which achieve surprising flavour. The Moondah Brook Verdelho 1989 is one of the cleanest, primmest, freshest wines to come this way lately, and I recommend it without hesitation. Its price from the wine-list should not be too high and its presentation fits the uncomplicated, appealling drink it is. Having a name people will recognise will also help move this wine. The 1989 Moondah Brook Verdelho is a youthful green of excellent clarity. It has a lively, perfumed nose with herbaceous and berry fruit flavours and pineapple/passionfruit aromas. All fruit, no wood. Again fresh and fruity, the palate shows delightful spicy tropical fruit which goes the whole length and lasts for longer. It’s clean and dry, with fresh acidity. Like other fine verdelhos, it will certainly improve in the bottle. The winemaker suggests five years and I wouldn’t disagree. Distribution is via Rhine Castle Wines.
