Matteo’s is a large, but intimate restaurant in North Fitzroy which in previous lives has been both Mietta’s and Cafe Mondiale. I’m a sucker for white tablecloths and dark timber, which effectively labels me as something of a traditionalist, but there’s nothing too stuffy or starchy about Matteo’s. Indeed, while he’s justly proud of his fare and service, Matteo Pitnatelli would cringe at the thought. Matteo’s menu is a blend of classic and modern Italian, so it’s no surprise that his wine list not only features a varied representation of Italian wines in its main section, but a fine cross-section of regions, styles and prices on their own listing. There’s a strong emphasis on the better Antinori wines, and Gaja’s top single vineyard Barbarescos also gain a place. At $595 per bottle they’re not exactly marching out the door, but Matteo has actually confessed he’d prefer not to sell them. The principal list offers a varied and affordable list of wines by the glass which changes monthly for regulars. It’s especially strong on half-bottles, the Burgundian varieties (for which Matteo clearly has an enthusiasm) and shiraz. The list features a thoughtful range of interesting and rarer labels like Wild Duck Creek, Bindi, Giaconda, Pierro, Gibbston Valley and Walnut Ridge and its prices, even for a fine selection of Burgundy, mean you can actually afford to drink them. Finally, feel very confident in the advice Matteo can provide.
