I t takes some getting used to for a Victorian such as I to concede that one of the most exciting pinot noirs from 1996 yet to spill across the desk actually comes from South Australia. But the Lenswood Vineyards 1996 Pinot Noir should come as no surprise, since Tim Knappstein has been fine-tuning his punchy and assertive Adelaide Hills wine since the powerful, but ever-so-promising debut vintage of 1991. With even more concentration of fruit than the excellent 1993, the strength of the 1994 and a rare sweetness and texture to boot, this wine confirms Lenswood Vineyards’ place amongst our top half dozen makers of Australian pinot. The best yet from Tim Knappstein, I rate it with a score of 18.7 and suggest you drink between 2001-2004. And the other five, just to start an argument? Bass Phillip, Bannockburn, Mount Mary, Giaconda and Bindi, all Victorian!
