Few significant Australian wine regions are as poorly understood as Langhorne Creek, the not insubstantial red wine area south of Adelaide that for so long has provided the backbone for now-traditional labels like Wolf Blass and Stonyfell Metala. For, since most are blended away with fruit from other regions to support large national brands such as Jacob’s Creek, it’s difficult to trace the fate of most of the wine grapes grown in Langhorne Creek. However, while its light has almost been perpetually hidden by an almost impenetrable bushel, it’s my view that Langhorne Creek is about to become more widely appreciated. Much of its potential is due to the presence of the large water system of Lake Alexandrina, itself replenished by the Bremer and Angas Rivers. The cool southerly breezes which blow back over the huge lake naturally moderate its summer temperatures. Joining a growing list of quality red makers such as Bleasdale, Stonyfell, Bremerton whose recognition is steadily growing in the market is Lake Breeze, a small maker of mainly red wines, some of which offer exceptional value. The Follett family has grown grapes for the last seventy of their one hundred and twenty years at Langhorne Creek, but only commenced making their own wine in 1987. Since then they have imposed their own richly fruited and substantially oaked stamp on some very consistent wines from cabernet sauvignon and shiraz, the best of which are released after several years under the ‘Winemakers Selection’ label. From 1998 come two excellent and relatively inexpensive reds in the fine-grained, deeply flavoured and very stylish Cabernet Sauvignon and a richer, more forward, dark and musky Bernoota Shiraz Cabernet blend, whose smoky oak is the perfect foil for some mouthfilling spicy cassis and plum fruit. They sell around $23 and $20 respectively.
