Worthy of the best from FN Queensland, local growers in one of WA’s emerging premium wine areas are still stuck on a regional name. Trying to do the best by all parties, the GIC (Geographical Indications Committee) has upset everyone by sitting on the fence and proposing Pemberton-Warren as an interim determination. Commonsense would see the region simply called Pemberton, especially since a minimum of 80% of the region’s vineyard operators representing at least 80% of its area under vine favour this name. I have yet to hear a lucid argument in favour of the alternative local proposals of Manjimup or The Warren Valley. Pemberton’s total area under vine is presently around 580 ha, although BRL Hardy is the only larger companies with vineyards there. Its largest vineyards are Houghtons (94 ha), Smithbrook (60 ha), Bracken Ridge (60 ha, about to increase to 90), Fonty’s Pool Farm (around 45 ha with big plans), Phoenicia Estate (around 35 ha), Chestnut Grove, Constables and Salitage (each around 20 ha). Its largest maker is Salitage and its key varieties are chardonnay, cabernet sauvignon, merlot, pinot noir and sauvignon blanc. Smithbrook’s Phil May is concerned that since few properties of any size convert grapes into wine within the region, that Pemberton does not yet receive its due recognition. Indeed, unless more wine producers commence making wines from at least 85% Pemberton fruit, it could well become the western equivalent of McLaren Vale chardonnay, most of which achieves high grape prices only to be blended into other regions’ wines.
