Yalumba’s Robert Hill Smith is making a valiant play to fill the void left by Murray Tyrrell. After two outstanding Eden Valley vintages in 2001 and 2002, he’s already declared his 2003 rieslings to be the best in decades. According to Hill Smith, ‘2002 was seen as one of the greatest ever Riesling years in Eden Valley and also Clare, yet the low pH and high natural acids seen in the 2003 wines, combined with tight and concentrated citrus lime flavours are delivering aromas showing even greater finesse than the 2002 vintage,’ he added. Personally, I’m dead keen to see these wines, especially the 2003 Yalumba Hand-Picked Riesling, a relatively new wine I am already prepared to list amongst Australia’s greatest examples of this variety. Hill Smith’s partner in the ‘mesh’ venture, Jeff Grosset, is also confident that he has at least matched his 2002 quality standard in 2003. And while the most self-critical winemaker in this country, Brian Croser, is certain that he has not, Petaluma’s 2003 is a very good wine indeed. The riesling revival rolls on!
