I’ve detailed the improvement in BRL reds in OnWine before, but their efforts in 1996 really take the cake. The trio of Leasingham Classic Clare Shiraz, Eileen Hardy Shiraz and Reynell Shiraz just about say everything there is to say about the state of the art of shiraz in Australia. Those of us who still remember the thin, apologetic Hardys reds of the 1980s will hardly recognise the richness, concentration and superbly balanced extraction of this excellent trio. The Classic Clare (June release) is at once almost exaggerated in its delivery of exotic, spicy shiraz and punchy chocolate new oak influences, but presents a refinement and fine-grained suppleness that lends it to immediate drinking or for medium-term cellaring. It’s rated 18.7, drinking best 2001-2004. A step up in weight and extract, the Eileen Hardy Shiraz (18.8, drink 2001-2004+) will require some keeping to be seen at its best. Wild small black and red berries, smoky chocolate/vanilla oak and minty regional flavours combine in this firm, superbly presented and sophisticated wine. Best and longest-keeping of the lot, the John Reynell Shiraz (18.9, drink 2004-2008, 2000 release) is something special. A concentrated, heady aroma of cassis, violets and licorice precedes a strong, astringent palate which marries plush, accentuated fruit with reserved oak treatment and ripe tannins. This trio will certainly keep Penfolds honest.
