Interesting stuff in the media today about the five-year high in Champagne consumption in Australia. These days there’s a clear and not insignificant price differential between non-vintage French and the best Australian alternatives, which makes this statistic even more intriguing, since the French are obviously not building their market on price. The most pricey Australian fizz you will find these days, such as Hardy’s Arras or Pipers Brook’s Pirie, are around AUD$55, while non-discounted retail for Champagne starts around AUD$65-75. One sure reason for this is that despite the significant growth in market shown by Australia’s Domaine Chandon, there simply isn’t enough decent local alternative to satisfy demand. Only the Arras is a serious attempt by either of the big four Australian companies, especially since Seppelt is steadily losing its way in the top end of the marketplace. Domaine Chandon has returned to form and is providing excellent value, and the Yering Station-Devaux hybrid of Yarrabank produces another worthy wine. Hanging Rock’s Macedon is consistent to style and remains favourite of mine, the Cope-Williams Romsey is something of an unsung hero and Petaluma’s Croser always looks much, much better on re-release. While the first Pirie (1995) was an excellent drink, the two subsequent releases have rather paled by comparison. Freycinet’s Radenti is a promising chewy style and Stefano Lubiana is also delivering some fine and well-publicised Tasmanian fizz. By some margin the best Tassie release at the present is the very stylish, complex and refreshing Jansz 1997, which should hugely encourage other makers there. Australian drinkers of sparkling wine are delivering a simple message: price isn’t as important as quality at the top end. High time for less talk and more results from Australian makers.
