It was a tough, hot vintage, but Stephen and Prue Henschke have followed up their best-ever Mount Edelstone from 2002 with another first-rate wine from 2003. The season has clearly dictated that the style is more concentrated and sumptuous than we are accustomed to seeing from this label, but despite its presence and proportions, the 2003 Mt Ed still reveals elegance and balance. There’s some spirity alcohol present, and the label claims 14.5% by volume, but it’s not excessive in this wine. More importantly, Prue Henschke has entirely avoided the soupy dehydrated ‘dead grape’ qualities so prevalent in this vintage from South Australia, and has retained freshness and brightness in this wine’s fruit. And, following from the exceptional 2002 reds from Henschke, there’s also no hint of microbial spoilage. Congratulations to the Henschkes. A few years ago Stephen told me it was his goal to return the profile of the Mount Edelstone Shiraz to equate again with that of Hill of Grace. He and Prue are certainly moving in that direction. Tasting note: Henschke Mount Edelstone Shiraz 2003
