Time and again Australians are informed by Americans and Europeans that the only worthwhile wines made here are the rich, ultra-concentrated reds from our warmest areas, largely from shiraz, usually from the Barossa. For many people, self included, much of the joy of wine comes from its diversity and its ability to surprise. Years ago Len Evans would rejoice in the fact that an old Australian shiraz might be mistaken by experts for a classic wine from the Rhone Valley, or even Bordeaux! Perhaps we’re all so fearful of making the same mistakes these days that we have to insist that everything is made so distinctively. The main argument trotted out by those who would see Australia become an island that grows only ultra-ripe shiraz is that we should do it simply because we can and others can’t. I’d argue that there are lots of things we might be able to do but wisely choose to avoid. Playing the bagpipes is one of them. On that note, while Scottish cuisine still has strides to make before becoming an international hit, it does at least count for more than haggis. A rich culture is a diverse culture. According to the incredibly narrow view so popular today, nobody should do anything creative if it is not entirely the opposite to what other people are doing. It’s obviously not okay for people like John Middleton to make elegant, refined cabernet sauvignon blends, because they already do that in Bordeaux. No matter that people enjoy drinking Mount Mary Quintet, or that it’s less than half the price it would be if it came from Bordeaux; it’s unoriginal. Similarly, Rick Kinzbrunner should desist from making a chardonnay that is not infrequently mistaken for fine Burgundy, Phillip Jones from making pinot noir that gives untold pleasure to those who can find it, and Gary Farr should stop making wine altogether or else re-establish Bannockburn on Roennfeldt Road, Barossa Valley. What is it about people who feel the need to pigeonhole things? Should all Australian food be of the one style? Chinese, Italian, French, Vietnamese or outback? Pick one. Perhaps Robert Parker jnr might have a view on that, since he’s the latest to join in the chorus for Australia to become exclusively a producer of hot climate shiraz. At the quality end, the Australian wine industry is fairly neatly divided into hot climate and cool to warm. Within the hotter regions, individual makers are taking separate paths over the issue of whether fruit should be harvested ripe or ultra-ripe. There’s no doubt whatsoever that the ultra-ripe are presently getting the best press, and the best prices soon follow. Rest assured; it won’t last forever. These things are cyclical. This morning in my e-mail was a note from an English author and freelance wine writer, Stuart Walton, who is also a member of the Internet forum conducted by the (English) Circle of Wine Writers and in whose membership directory lists ‘intoxication’ as his only interest. His message was this: ‘Am I alone in thinking Australian wine the most boring wine in the whole known world?’ Has he been fed an exclusive diet of over-ripe Australian shiraz? More likely, like some others I can think of, perhaps he just needs to get out more.
