There’s no doubt that at this moment, and indeed for several years now, the Australian region that’s making more high-end cabernet sauvignon than any other is Margaret River. And by quite some margin – with makers like Voyager Estate, Vasse Felix, Moss Wood, Cullen, Xanadu, Woodlands, Peccavi, Cloudburst, Cape Mentelle and Cherubino heading a very strong pack of international standing.
Broadly speaking, the cabernets from the northern part of the region around Yallingup are darker-fruited and more densely structured, those immediately to the south of this around Wilyabrup are more elegant and red-fruited, while those further down, to the south and west of Margret River township are finer, more herbal and restrained. But beware – those are some pretty big generalisations.
Here’s another broad statement that’s a shade more consistent: the 2017 vintage cabernets from Margaret River represent almost an unusual level of elegance, perfume and subtlety. As a group, they stand out dramatically from the more concentrated and robust wines of 2016, but the finer examples still reveal an undercarriage of genuine structure that will help them fulfill their potential with time in the bottle.
Crammed between the impressively concentrated wines of 2016 and the supremely balanced and complete crop from 2018, it’s likely that 2017 will go down as a less spectacular vintage, and in all probability not one of the more expensive ones. But don’t be fooled – its wines deliver perhaps a European-accented finesse and charm that will immediately please those seeking ripeness but also restraint and ultimately satisfy those who like cellaring cabernet for a decade.
From the southern reaches of the region comes the Devil’s Lair Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon 2017. It’s restrained, faintly herbal and cedary, scented with dusty notes of dark cherries, violets and cassis. Long and juicy, its intense flavours of dark cherries, mulberries and dark plums overlie suggestions of smoky, meaty complexity and a hint of mineral. Underpinned by a supple, finely textured spine, it delivers pleasing drive and genuine elegance. Try it now or later…
