It’s that time of the year again that sees me in Singapore. The principal purpose of the visit is always to check on the production of my book, The Australian Wine Annual, especially at the binding time. Without hopefully pushing my luck too far, this year has been terrific. The team at KHL have done themselves proud, and the 2007 edition looks a million dollars. I just hope its buyers consider the content to be of comparable standard! It’s always a pleasure for me to spend time in Singapore with Michael Hadley, who over the years has done more than any other individual to promote the cause of top-end Australian wine in this very important market. Last night we dined with another friend, Mike Alexander from Viking, who flew in from Bangkok to join us at one of Michael’s signature restaurants, Michaelanglo’s in Holland Village. We had much to discuss, which was why it was absolutely necessary to open five bottles of red. The first was a wine that has been subject to some controversy since some degree of bottle variation is clearly evident amongst those I have tasted. But the bottle of Bannockburn Serr̩ Pinot Noir 1998 was indeed a top one. Now entering a more ethereal and gamey phase, it’s in fine health to be sure. Excellent length of complex evolving fruit expression, lingering savoury qualities, delightfully spicy clove and cinnamon-like perfume; it’s a top-notch pinot with distance to travel. Next was a Bass Phillip Reserve Pinot Noir 1997, which I had trucked along for the occasion. The bottle was affected in an extremely marginal way by its cork (b*gger!), but was still a marvellous wine that took a typically long time to move from its youthful blockiness (quite remarkable for a 9 year-old wine) towards the cultivated silkiness it eventually revealed. As usual, the wait was worth it. Classic stuff, with at least another decade of development ahead. Keeping Australia honest was a Hanzell Pinot Noir from 1996 from Sonoma. It was a typical wine from this region, packed with slightly confectionary berry/cherry flavour and developing along suede leather lines. It didn’t quite retain the structure and presence of the Australian pinots, but was a delicious wine, nonetheless. America’s pride was well and truly restored, however, with a spectacular Dominus Estate 1997 selected off the list by Mike Alexander. Weighing in at a lightweight 14.1% (by US standards), it is a sumptuous, beautifully presented red of remarkable elegance and tightness. Exuding finesse and breeding, it was drinking like a four year-old, with purity, intensity and evenness of fruit. A great wine, and yet further proof to my assertion that American cabernet does not have to exceed 14.5%. Another half a percent alcohol would have thrown the wine’s balance entirely. It’s not exactly cheap, but this wine would be something of a revelation to most Australian cabernet drinkers who are only familiar with the ultra-ripe American variant. It would be great to see this property recover this level of form. The final wine was Fonterutoli’s Siepi 2000, a Super Tuscan blend of cabernet sauvignon and sangiovese. We wanted something with tightness and focus, but also with lusciousness and richness. Alluringly perfumed, dark, savoury and mineral, it’s evidently made for food, but it didn’t need any. It’s a brilliant red that would easily hold its own against its more fashionable and expensive contemporaries. Oddly, some might think, it is also rated very highly by Robert Parker, who failed to see any connection to Tuscany in the wine. I agree with his score, but not with his interpretation.
