It’s not quite the secret it was just a few years ago, but I’m still astonished by the puzzled reaction so many people give to a mere mention of Best’s Bin 0 Shiraz. I can’t figure out why there aren’t more of us hounding Viv Thomson for an increased allocation for what is possibly the most under-valued jewel in Australian red wine. While I’ve no doubt that the premier Best’s red, the Thomson Family Shiraz, has raised itself to a par with Henschke’s Hill of Grace, I’m equally positive that the traditional Bin 0 Shiraz has done the same with Mount Edelstone. If ever I might have needed convincing of that, the 1998 Bin 0 dispels any doubts. Then the 1999 simply crushes them. Unusual, for not only has Viv Thomson made a shiraz in 1998 which more than does justice to this highly rated vintage but, thanks to an exceptionally low crop, he has actually superceded the 1998 wine with the 1999. While the 1998 wine (18.6, drink 2010-2018+) is long, willowy and understated, with musky black pepper and bay leaf complexity, the 1999 (18.8, drink 2011+) is an essay in pure, vibrant dark red and black berry flavours of rare intensity, spicy floral and sneezy black pepper aromas. Both wines display rare tightness and balance, a brightness and freshness of fruit, and sympathetic use of new and older oak. If you’re already a follower of this wine, please accept my apologies if my enthusiasm for it makes it harder to find. If you’re unfamiliar with it, you know where to send the bottle of Scotch this Christmas.
