Grange it certainly isn’t. Not even close. Instead, Penfolds’ ‘second’ Shiraz is a ripe and seductive red deliberately fashioned into a softer, smoother and more supple and fleshy wine than a comparatively robust and muscular Grange of the same age could ever be. Another substantial point of difference is that unlike the 100% new American-oaked Grange, its sibling has received only French cooperage, half of which was new. A tasting of likely 2000 components of the two wines clearly showed that Penfolds see the two wines as something vastly separate and distinct. The RWT Shiraz 1997 is an excellent wine, but doesn’t quite do to me what top vintages of Peter Lehmann’s Stonewell have done. I rate the wine with the same score as Lehmann’s new Eight Songs Shiraz, and both of which represent the first time their makers have given French oak to a premium shiraz. Sourced from top Barossa vineyards, several of which have also supplied material for Grange, the RWT is plump and concentrated, with a bright lift of sweet fragrant cherries and plums, licorice and fennel, supported by assertive chocolate and cedary oak. Its palate underlines its Penfolds origins, with layers and layers of fruit and oak derived complexity and depth, before a lingering savoury and fine-grained finish with firmness and balance. Top stuff, rating 18.7 and drinking best between 2005-2009. I’d expect an extra dimension from the 1998 vintage. As for the name? Penfolds say it comes from ‘Red Winemaking Trial’ and suggest that it was a good idea to revert to the winemaking codes traditionally used in Penfolds’ reds. Despite the fact that Bin 707 was named after an aircraft, this is a good idea. But why on earth wasn’t RWT given a Bin Number as well? And its price? Somewhere between $80-100. For the time being.
