One of the most enjoyable reds I’ve opened this Christmas was a quirky old-fashioned blend that Tyrrell’s used as the basis for their revival of an old Australian concept. Ron Haselgrove, the legendary Mildara winemaker who oversaw the making of the famous series of Mildara Bin Number reds as well as its Yellow Label series, developed an exceptional ability to blend together parcels of different varieties and different regions. The first time he included cabernet sauvignon from Coonawarra and shiraz from the Hunter Valley in the same wine was in 1965, with the Bin 34 red, which was also 58% McLaren Vale shiraz. The combination didn’t often reappear, but other companies, especially Tyrrell’s, were interested in the idea that the faster-maturing, leathery and chocolatey spiciness of Hunter shiraz could successfully be partnered by the more vibrant dark berry fruits and fine-grained tannins of Coonawarra cabernet. Tyrrell’s married the two in 1991 with their Show Reserve Shiraz Cabernet (18.0, drink 1999-2003+). Its earthy, tobaccoey nose is unashamedly developed, but there’s still some vibrant berry fruit and cedary oak on show. Still lively and youthful, the palate is fine and supple, slightly sappy, herbal and green-edged. It’s medium in weight, presenting appealing chocolatey, suede leather-like complexity. 1991 was also the year that Tyrrell’s re-introduced its Vat 8 Shiraz Cabernet, a blend of the same varieties from the same regions, that they’ve produced to quite a high level every year since. Sure the wine can be a shade schizophrenic, but I usually enjoy its honesty and charm. It’s also quite a pleasure to try to pull the wine apart mentally and assign the different flavours and textures it offers to the different regions and grapes. Also tasted recently were a couple of Vat 9 Shirazes, from 1991 and 1996. The 1996 vintage is supple, developed and sweet, with pleasing sweet chocolate-like oak and soft tannins. The 1991 is a more substantial red, with structure and substance, now heading towards the typical sweaty/leathery qualities you only see in classic older-style Hunter shirazes. My ratings and drinking windows for these wines are so close to those presented on this site that no change is necessary.
