A lot of fuss has been made about the introduction to the local scene of new Australian wines from Italian varieties. Sometimes I think their prominence amongst some media has more to do with their novelty factor than their quality. That said, one of the brightest surprises I have experienced lately has been to taste the new range of three red Italian varietals from Maglieri, made from 100% McLaren Vale fruit. There’s a Sangiovese, a Barbera and a Nebbiolo, each priced around $22. The Sangiovese (17.2, drink 2004-2007+) is an uncomplicated but generously and genuinely varietally flavoured wine with spicy, briary flavours of dark cherries and plums. There’s a hint of bubblegum, but also of meaty, savoury qualities, while its juicy licorice-like qualities are quite delicious. The lively acid finish is also very refreshing and varietally correct. The Barbera (16.5, drink 2003-2004+) is similarly true to type, with sweet red cherry fruit, pleasing spiciness, meatiness and suggestions of leather. Its generous, tangy fruit qualities are emphasised by its vibrant acid finish, but there’s a hint of the saltiness that is generally becoming more of a common concern in McLaren Vale reds. Australian makers have habitually struggled with this variety, but this new Nebbiolo (17.0, drink 2004-2007) is approachable and mellow, with some of the fine-grained astringency associated with its usual palate structure. It’s certainly no Barolo, but there’s a fragrant earthy, confectionary bouquet, with a long, savoury palate offering plenty of cherry and plum-like fruit. It’s encouraging to see further evidence to support the claims from the Australian arm of the Beringer Blass camp that quality is its major objective. Lately I’ve been impressed with the Gold Label Blass wines, improvements up the scale under the Jamieson’s Run label, continued developments at Baileys and a renewed regional focus with the Mount Ida Shiraz. With rumours circulating in the trade about expenditure cuts within The Hardy Wine Company, which if true would be expected to impact on quality, the big companies simply have to produce the goods to maintain their edge in both domestic and export markets.
