Many moons ago when I was a young wine writer, I thought I knew quite a bit about the subject. I had by this time written several books, including one about Len Evans, owner of one of the finest palates I have ever encountered. One time, Evans told me he was coming to Melbourne and that he wanted me to join him for lunch. And at this particular time, I was obsessed with what I believed was the quality deeply inherent within and frequently achieved by Australian pinot noir.
So, in what was perhaps one of the most unusual meals I ever shared with Evans, I took about a dozen of what were then believed to be the finest expressions of local pinot noir to lunch, which took place at his choice of restaurant – and perhaps the most un-pinot noir-like destination in Melbourne at the time – Vlado’s steakhouse in Richmond. Seeking Evans’ opinion on each of the wines I presented did not actually take very long. Scathingly, he dismissed the entire lot in about 20 minutes and then ordered a mature bottle of Penfolds from the restaurant list.
Never before had I seen wines sliced, diced, and exposed with such rapidity and with such frankly unerring accuracy. Today, some 25-plus years later, I recall with absolute clarity the rational and utterly straightforward way in which Evans poleaxed each of the pinots I brought him to taste. It remains one of the greatest learning experiences of my life. Aside from his criticisms of the wine, Evans reinforced to me with laser-like intensity that strong reputations, positive intent and admiration of cause and ambition have absolutely no place in the objective evaluation of wine.
That’s why I find it hard to accommodate most of the fawning comments, descriptions and ratings afforded today to many local pinot noirs by a host of Australian wine commentators – many of whom have significant followings and therefore impact in the market. Many such comments come from a younger generation of wine critics and commentators, just like I was before that lunch with Evans. But many also come from older guys who frankly should know better. Much better.
To be perfectly honest, today is a very unreal time in this country with respect to pinot noir. Never in our history have so many pinots simply lacking in basic quality fundamentals been accorded such otherworldly levels of praise. And never before in the history of commentating about Australian wine have so many got it so completely wrong. It is very, very hard to find serious pinot noir in Australia today. But follow the hype and you’d think we owned the grape.
If only I had been able to record what I learned that day on my phone. But this lunch was about fifteen years early for that.
A reality check is desperately needed right now with Australian pinot noir, pretty well across the board. Like the one Evans gave me. As far as this variety is concerned, most of our winemakers, wine writers, merchants and sommeliers are frankly kidding themselves. It’s high time this grape was put under a real spotlight and for its wines to be evaluated properly against their international peers.
