Since the late 1970s, the names of Bannockburn and Gary Farr, its winemaker have virtually been inseparable. With Farr directing the winemaking tiller, Bannockburn became an iconic Australian vineyard with a strong international reputation. Times, however, have changed, and despite the facts that they share distributors and their vineyards share a common boundary, the link between Bannockburn and Farr has been well and truly severed. The immediate challenge facing Bannockburn is to re-establish its presence in the premium wine market without the person who has been its public face and the director of its wine styles for so long. It might take time, but I am confident its owners will succeed. Bannockburn was established in 1973 by Geelong-based businessman, Stuart Hooper. No expense was too great for Hooper, who planted several vineyards on the Bannockburn site, whose sum area under vine now amounts to around 25 hectares. While Bannockburn’s reputation has largely been founded on its distinctive wines from chardonnay and pinot noir, its shiraz is steadily being recognised as some of Australia’s leading Rh̫ne-like wines from this variety. And having recently tasted several wines from the 2005 vintage, I can suggest that its merlot, malbec and sauvignon blanc also have what it takes. It’s rare indeed to find a single site capable of such exceptional wines from such a large spread of varieties. Built in 1981, Bannockburn’s winery remains a state of the art facility with extensive cellars and the facility to handle a large number of small batches of fruit and wine. Its new winemaker, Michael Glover, is itching to switch it into action for the 2006 vintage. Bannockburn has remained a family business after the death of Stuart Hooper and is today owned by his daughters, Sally and Judy. Phil Harrison, Judy’s husband, is also its general manager. The Hoopers are presently engaged in rationalizing their wine-related interests, which have also included the Geelong wine store of Bannockburn Cellars plus the retail/distribution business of Chas Cole Cellars. Once these operations are sold, they will be able to devote their entire attention to their winery and vineyard. Not unsurprisingly, Gary Farr’s departure prior to the 2005 vintage left a significant hole in the business. With him departed a large amount of knowledge and history, as well as the hands-on management and direction of winemaking and viticulture. Into the breach stepped one of Australia’s leading winemakers, Giaconda’s Rick Kinzbrunner. He helped appoint Matt Holmes, a talented young winemaker, for the 2005 vintage, later providing crucial advice and support. He also helped to place Michael Glover, who has recently been instrumental in the improving wines from Hobart’s Moorilla Estate, as Bannockburn’s new full-time winemaker. Over the past year or so, a team comprising at various times Kinzbrunner, Holmes, Glover and wine consultant Doug Neal have exhaustively sifted through the winery cellar, barrel by barrel, weeding out the components from the 2004 vintage that do not meet the expectations traditionally associated with the Bannockburn label. As a result, while there will be scaled-down releases of the ‘standard’ label wines, there will be no releases of the premier Serr̩, Stuart (both pinot noir) and Range (shiraz) red wines. On a more positive note, the barrel samples I have tasted of the 2005 vintage, made by Holmes and to be finished and bottled by Glover, reinforce the impression that Bannockburn’s vineyard is certainly one of Australia’s finest. I tasted sumptuous, seamless chardonnay, powerfully fruited and savoury pinot noir, deeply spiced shiraz and two truly remarkable batches of merlot and malbec. Michael Glover faces the enviable task of shaping these batches into the wines that will launch the birth of Bannockburn Mark Two. Seeking to engage more closely with the trade and the public, Sally and Judy Hooper are adamant that Bannockburn will thrive and survive in its post-Farr phase. It’s a challenge for them and an incredible opportunity for Michael Glover. It’s not every day that a young winemaker gets handed the keys to a vineyard and a winery ready to be driven like a Bugatti.
