For me, at least, Barossa semillon has just become a whole lot better. Yesterday I tasted a wine that has entirely changed my view of what this rather under-rated combination of variety and region can deliver. The wine, which I confess to not knowing previously, is a must-try for anyone seriously interested in semillon, or for that matter anyone who really enjoys Australian riesling. Wondering about that remark? Read on. I was sent a bottle of the Steinborner Home Block Semillon 2004 by Tanunda Cellars, an independent Barossa-based wine store with a strong and enthusiastic focus on a large number of small-scale Barossa producers, many of which I again confess to knowing little about. This wine has a bright pale straw colour. It’s unoaked, and its punchy, minerally aromas of honeydew melon and peaches happily deliver a measure of reductive complexity. Smooth and creamy, long and even luscious in the middle of the palate, it’s marvellously long, fine and mineral, culminating in a (riesling-like) finish of limey acids. Superbly defined, it’s easily the best Barossa semillon I have ever tasted. From a point of view of palate and profile, it has more in common with riesling than the rather blousy expression of semillon often seen from the Barossa. I rate it 18.8/95, drink 2006-2009. Or drink it right now. Semillon is a variety that needs to be genuinely excellent to really stand up, but this one easily does. And its price? An absolute bargain at $20 per bottle from Tanunda Cellars, 14 Murray Street, Tanunda, 5352, phone (08) 8563 3544, email [email protected].
