Two red wines have stood out in recent days as first-rate examples of their breed. Clonakilla’s Shiraz Viognier (from Murrumbateman, in the Canberra region) has for several years been at the sharp end of Australian shirazes with northern Rh̫ne pretensions. Due for release in September, the 2002 vintage is clearly one of the best releases yet. It’s an altogether more restrained and silky expression of this wine than several recent vintages, representing an easing back in extract towards tighter, finer tannins. Viognier lends remarkable fragrance and perfume to the nose, while accentuating the spiciness and savoury focus of shiraz fruit on the palate. Moreover, it’s exquisitely meaty, spicy and funky, without a suggestion of microbial instability. Very impressive, very delicious now, but drinking best between 2010-2014. Rated 19.0, to retail around $65, with an ex cellar price of $55. No doubt at all: Orlando is an under-rated maker of classic Australian red. There’s no better example of this than the 1998 Jacaranda Ridge (reserve level) Cabernet Sauvignon from Coonawarra. It’s dark and brooding, but gradually unfolds to reveal handsomely and spotlessly ripened dark berry and plum flavours, with which fine-grained new French oak influences have been tightly interwoven. There’s a thread of dried herbs through the aroma and beneath the palate, while it finishes with dusty, tight-knit tannins of strength and longevity. Rated 19.3 (drink 2010-2018+), this wine will be released towards the end of this year or early next year at around $55 retail. Coonawarra has long been promising the sort of thing that this wine delivers. Tatachilla has also released a new budget range of varietals under a ‘Breakneck’ label. The 2002 Merlot is spicy and vibrant, but darned if I could pull the synthetic plug out from the top of the bottle! Obviously I’m not drinking enough meaty Barossa shiraz!
